How to Build a Bookcase – The Complete Guide {Houseful of Handmade }

 

Whether you prefer a freestanding or built-in bookshelf, this detailed tutorial provides everything required to construct a bookcase. I will explain all the essential steps for creating a custom bookcase, including how to prepare a cut list.

Constructing a bookshelf is quite similar to making your own cabinets. They are simpler to build than you may expect! Essentially, they consist of a box with several additional components.

Bookcase Styles

Bookcases are incredibly practical. Naturally, they are ideal for holding books, but this simple-to-build cabinet can also provide many other storage options throughout your home.

Adapt your bookcase for use as:

Why Make Your Own Bookcase?

Creating your own bookshelf offers plenty of advantages over purchasing ready-made bookcases or spending a great deal on custom-built versions.

1. You can save substantial money or receive much higher quality for the same price. Many affordable ready-made bookcases use inexpensive particleboard that does not hold up over time. Instead, you can build your own cabinets from durable plywood.
2. Design custom bookcases that suit your home exactly! Build perfectly sized built-in bookshelves or create a custom bookcase to hold precisely what you need.
3. You will feel genuinely accomplished! Few things compare to completing a project yourself. Once finished, you will also feel prepared to tackle even more projects!

Factors to Think About when Building a Bookshelf

Before drawing up your bookcase plans, you should settle a few details when building your own bookcase. Let’s review the choices available for bookcase construction so you can decide what works best.

Which bookcase style do you prefer?

Your bookcase can include a face frame to conceal the plywood edges, or you can apply edge banding for a frameless design.

A face frame gives the front of your bookcase a broader appearance. It can also conceal the slight gap along the sides of adjustable shelves.

What depth should my bookshelves have?

Since you are creating a custom bookcase, you can choose whatever shelf depth suits your needs. That flexibility is one of the biggest benefits of DIY projects!

Think about what you plan to store or display in the bookcase when deciding on the appropriate depth.

Should the Shelves Be Adjustable or Fixed?

You can construct bookcases with either fixed or adjustable shelves. Fixed shelves connect to the sides of the bookcase and provide added stability.

When making a tall bookcase, include at least one fixed shelf positioned approximately halfway up the unit. In my display cabinet, I highlighted the fixed shelf by building a second box within the first

For adjustable shelves, you can install shelf pins in holes drilled into the plywood, or use strips known as shelf standards or pilaster strips.

To create shelf-pin holes, use a jig like this to bore perfectly aligned and evenly spaced holes.

Shelf pins generally come in 5mm or 1/4″ sizes. Be certain to select a drill bit that matches the size of the shelf pins you purchased.

Shelf standards, also called pilaster strips, are usually placed in a routed channel along the interior of the bookcase. You may attach them directly to the plywood surface, but the face frame should be wide enough to conceal them.

Metal clips are then inserted into the shelf standard to support the adjustable shelves.

For bookcases with face frames, you can attach a face frame to the front of every shelf, whether adjustable or fixed. This creates a thicker appearance and conceals the plywood edge.

When adding a face frame to a fixed shelf, attach it as a component of the bookcase’s main face frame.

For adjustable shelves, cut them shallow enough so the face frame attached to each shelf fits inside the bookcase’s face frame.

Kickboard, Toe kick, or Legs?

The lowest shelf of your bookcase must sit slightly above the floor. The bottom should be completed with either a kickboard, toekickboard or legs—the choice is yours.

A kickboard is a wooden panel installed around the bottom of a bookcase, much like a baseboard along a wall. It conceals the space beneath the lowest shelf. I added a kickboard to this bookcase, which I built for the mudroom lockers in our home.

Toe kicks are commonly installed beneath cabinets. They provide space for your feet beneath the cabinet, preventing them from bumping into the front.

A reduced-size toe kick can also give the bottom of your bookcase a finished appearance. Install a plywood panel between the bookcase sides and beneath the bottom section. Set it back only 1/2-1 inch.

Another option is to elevate the lower portion of your bookshelf with legs. You can incorporate the legs into the design, as I did with this dining room hutch. They form part of the face frame surrounding the bottom shelves.

Alternatively, attach the legs beneath the finished bookcase. That is the approach I used for this DIY display cabinet.

Trimming out a Bookcase

Your bookcase can remain plain, or you can enhance it with trim along the top, bottom, and/or sides for a more detailed furniture design.

Home improvement stores carry many varieties of trim. Select any style that suits the appearance you want to achieve for your bookcase.

When staining your cabinet, choose trim made from the same type of wood, or from a species that complements the wood used to construct the bookcase.

Adding Doors to a Bookshelf

Adding doors to some or all of your bookcase can provide excellent storage. Learn how to make DIY cabinet doors here (3 options from beginner to pro).

If doors will cover only a portion of the bookcase, the area above them must have a fixed shelf.

You can install doors on either a face frame or a frameless bookcase. They may also be inset into the front or positioned to overlay it.

Find out everything you need to know about adding doors to your bookshelf here: Understanding Cabinet Door Sizes and Hinges.

What Kind of Wood Should you Use to Build a Bookshelf?

The main structure of your bookshelf will be made from 3/4″-thick plywood. Choose the plywood type according to how you intend to use the bookcase.

• For painted bookcases, choose plywood with a smooth surface.
• For a stained bookshelf, select cabinet-grade plywood with the wood veneer of your choice.
• For utility bookshelves, a lower-quality grade of plywood will work.

If you decide to include a face frame, construct it from 1x material (3/4″ thick). The width of the 1x boards is up to you and should match the style you want. Face frames are generally built with 1×2 boards measuring 1 1/2″ wide.

Using thicker boards for the face frame will create a more substantial appearance. However, the smaller opening may make it more difficult to install adjustable shelves.

Any type of wood can be used for the face frame. If you plan to stain the bookcase, choose wood that matches or complements the veneer on the plywood.

DIY Bookcase Plans

After answering all of the questions above, you can begin drawing up plans for your bookcase. I will guide you through creating a plan for a custom bookshelf so you can begin construction with confidence.

How to Figure Your Cut List

With the style and parts of your bookcase decided, the next step is preparing a cut list.

To make the list, you must know the precise dimensions of the bookcase you plan to build. You will also need the measurements of the lumber or plywood you intend to use.

Refer to the formulas in the charts below or the printable PDF plans to convert these dimensions into a cut list for your new DIY bookcase.

Face Frame Bookcase Cut List

Refer to the chart below to determine the measurements for each component of your face frame base cabinets.

After determining the measurements for each component, cut all of the pieces.

Frameless Bookcase Cut List

Use the chart below to determine the measurements for each component of your frameless (plywood only) bookcase:

What Size to Cut Adjustable Shelves?

The amount of plywood to remove from the inside width of your bookcase for adjustable shelves depends on the shelf pins or shelf standards you select.

I like to add the pins or clips after assembling the bookcase, then measure the opening to obtain an exact shelf size.

How to Assemble a Bookcase

Because bookcases come in many different styles, this post provides a general guide for building one. I will attempt to discuss the various elements involved in constructing different types of bookshelves. If I missed anything, leave a comment and I will answer it there.

Tools & Materials

Tips for Building Perfectly Square Bookcases

When every piece is square and each cut is made at an accurate 90-degree angle, your bookcases will be perfectly square.

1. Before cutting the wood, confirm that the blade is adjusted to a precise 90-degree angle against the tool’s bed or plate. Even a 1-degree deviation can make your boxes and face frames uneven and out of square.
2. True up the raw edge of your plywood or board before making cuts. Factory edges are not always perfectly square, which can lead to crooked pieces.
3. Do not mark all the pieces first and then cut them. The blade removes a portion of the plywood, called the kerf, during each cut, causing the pieces to become slightly too short and producing out-of-square cabinet boxes. Instead, measure and make the first cut, then measure from the new edge to the next cut mark and cut again. Be sure the blade is positioned on the waste side of the cut line so the entire measured amount remains.
4. Perform a quick square check on every cut piece by measuring from the upper-right corner diagonally to the lower-left corner. Record that measurement, then measure between the other two corners. Matching measurements indicate that the piece is square.

STEP 1 – Assemble the Bookcase Carcass

For face frame bookcases, attach the face frame using pocket holes drilled into the front of the side and top/bottom pieces, with the jig set for 3/4″ material, or use finishing nails.

Pocket holes keep the front of the face frame free of visible holes, although holes may be seen inside the bookshelves. They also provide a more secure connection than nails.

For face frame bookcases: when using pocket holes, adjust the jig for 3/4″ thick material and drill the holes into the fronts of the side boards.

For frameless bookshelves: apply edge banding to the front edges of the side, top/bottom, and stationary shelf pieces before putting everything together. Cut away any excess.

When using shelf standards: route grooves into the side pieces at the locations where they will be installed. Completing this step now will be considerably easier than doing it later.

When using shelf pins: I prefer to bore the holes into the sides after assembly. The jig simplifies aligning them inside the finished bookshelves.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ thick material along the sides of the top, bottom, and any stationary shelf pieces.

For face frame bookcases: if pocket holes will be used to secure the face frame, drill holes into the fronts of these boards as well.

Install the bottom piece so the shelf’s top surface sits at the desired height for the bottom of the bookcase. Position the top piece flush with the upper edges of the sides.

If you plan to add a kickboard to the base, ensure the bottom sits slightly above the trim that will surround it.

Fasten these components with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Use squares during assembly to keep the box properly aligned.

When constructing a taller bookcase, you’ll need to include at least 1 fixed shelf. Fasten it using the same method as the top and bottom components.

Use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue, and rely on squares to keep the case properly aligned during assembly.

If you are including a toe kick: make pocket holes in both ends of the toe kick board. Install it beneath the bottom shelf, positioning it at least 1/2″ toward the back.

Fasten it using 1 1/4″ screws and glue.

STEP 2 – Put Together the Face Frame

Cut the face frame rails and stiles to size.

Adjust your pocket hole jig for 3/4″-thick material, then drill 2 pocket holes into each end of every face frame rail.

Position the rails between the stiles. The upper rail needs to sit flush with the tops of the stiles (sides), while the lower rail should align flush with the upper edge of the bookcase’s bottom shelf.

EXPERT TIP:
Use face clamps to hold the frame components level while driving the screws.

Fasten with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.

For taller bookshelves, place another rail in the face frame at the fixed shelf location. Position it with the rail’s top edge flush against the shelf’s top.

Fasten it in the same manner as the upper and lower rails.

Your face frame is now prepared for installation on the bookcase carcass.

Apply wood glue to the plywood front, then position the face frame so it sits flush on every side. Fasten it with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws or 1 1/4″ finishing nails.

STEP 3 – Install the Back

Set the router to cut a 3/8″-wide channel with a depth matching that of the back panel.

Because plywood is commonly a little thinner than its stated measurement, measuring the panel and adjusting the router accordingly is recommended.

With a fixed shelf, you may either cut 2 back panels to cover each section individually, or make the fixed shelf shallower (equal to the bookcase depth minus the routed channel) before installation and use 1 large back panel.

Place the back panel onto the bookcase and verify that the case is square.

Secure it using 3/4″ finishing nails driven through the back and into the side, top, and bottom boards.

STEP 4 – Add the Finishing Details

For adjustable shelves using shelf pins: use a jig to bore the pin holes inside the bookcase. Make 4 rows, with 2 on each side—one near the front and another near the back.

For shelf standards: fit the standards inside the channels on the bookcase sides.

If desired, install trim or baseboards around the bottom. Fasten them with 1 1/4″ finishing nails.

Finish the top and sides with trim as preferred.

Take measurements for the adjustable shelves, then cut them to size.

STEP 5 – Smooth & Finish

Sand your bookcase, then apply paint or stain. If you’re creating built-in bookcases, follow the instructions below for installation.

For freestanding bookcases, securing them to the wall is advised to keep them from tipping.

How to Build a Built-in Bookcase

Converting a bookcase into a built-in unit is simpler than it may seem. This works with any bookcase you construct yourself, and store-bought shelves can also be transformed into impressive built-ins.

For built-ins placed inside a cubby or alcove:

• Construct the bookcase to fit within the opening without installing a face frame.
• Position the bookshelf flush with the front edge of the opening.
• Cover the plywood edges and the sides of the opening with trim or a broad face frame.
• Apply caulk where the trim or face frame touches the wall for a seamless appearance.

For built-ins installed along a wall:

• Build the bookcase to suit the wall you have selected, whether it covers the entire wall or only a section.
• Take off any baseboards and molding from the wall where the shelves will be installed.
• Set the bookcase, or multiple bookcases, in place and anchor them to the wall.
• Place the removed baseboards back over the bookcase along the wall.
• Install trim around the bookcase to conceal any gaps at the wall and ceiling when needed.
• Caulk the baseboards and trim where they join the wall to create a smooth finish.