How to Build Base Cabinets – The Complete Guide {Houseful of Handmade }

 

Base cabinets are the cabinets used for constructing lower kitchen cupboards, kitchen islands, and bathroom vanities.

They can also be used to form deeper bases for built-in cabinets in other areas of the home.

Be sure to read the general post on building cabinets here to learn about the various cabinet styles, the advantages and disadvantages of each, a basic look at cabinet components, and general assembly methods.

This post focuses on the particular measurements and construction of base cabinets.

Things to Consider when Building Base Cabinets

Before constructing your own base cabinets, there are several details to determine while preparing your base cabinet plans. Let’s review the choices available for building base cabinets so you can decide what works best for you.

Which cabinet style do you prefer?

Your base cabinets can be made as face frame cabinets or frameless European-style cabinets. Read more about the various cabinet types, including pictures, here to determine which option suits your project.

How Tall are Base Cabinets?

The required height of a base cabinet depends on the kind of cabinet you are constructing. Keep in mind that you can make them taller if you are above average height, or shorter if you are below average height. That is one benefit of building them yourself! However, if you may sell your home in the future, unusual heights could discourage prospective buyers.

How Deep are Base Cabinets?

The depth of your base cabinets is determined much like their height and varies according to the type of cabinet you are making. Once again, since you are customizing them, you can choose the dimensions that suit you!

What is the purpose of a toe kick?

A toe kick is an opening cut into the bottom of a base cabinet that lets you stand closer because your feet can fit underneath. This helps lessen body strain caused by bending forward. Toe kicks also lift the cabinet opening several inches above the floor.

Toe kicks are especially helpful in kitchens and bathrooms because you often stand in front of the cabinets. For built-in cabinets in a living room, den, or similar space, a toe kick may not be needed, though you may still want to elevate the cabinet opening a few inches so the doors can open smoothly without catching on carpet or objects on the floor.

Some kitchen islands are constructed without toe kicks so they resemble furniture rather than cabinets placed in the center of the room. To make standing near the island more comfortable, add an extra inch of countertop overhang.

Toe Kick Options

When creating a long row of base cabinets, such as in a kitchen, placing all the cabinets on one large 2×4 platform may be the simpler approach. You can level the platform with shims and fasten it to the floor, then position the cabinets on top.

Additionally, when making standard kitchen-height base cabinets, using a 2×4 platform allows you to cut 6 sides from one 4×8 plywood sheet. This can be an excellent way to savemoney while using less plywood.

If you are only constructing a few cabinets or a vanity for the bathroom, this may not be the most affordable or simplest choice.

What are the Dimensions of a Toe Kick?

A typical toe kick measures 3″ deep and 3 1/2″-4″ high. Making the toe kick taller than 4″ will not improve standing comfort at the cabinet, and it will decrease the available interior space. Avoid making it less than 3″ deep.

Keep in mind that when constructing a face frame cabinet on a 2×4 base, the toe kick will be a little shorter than 3 1/2″ since the face frame extends slightly below the cabinet base.

This is the method I used for my kitchen, and I have no trouble standing at the cabinets for long periods. However, my robot vacuum sometimes becomes trapped beneath the toe kick.

Should You Add Drawers?

Base cabinets may consist of only a cabinet compartment, or you can include a cabinet compartment with 1 drawer, usually positioned at the top. This provides an excellent way to increase drawer storage in your kitchen.

For a base cabinet made entirely of drawers, see the post about building drawer base cabinets. If you need guidance on constructing drawers, take a look at these 3 simple methods for making DIY drawers.

There is no single correct number of drawers or specific place where they belong. The benefit of making your own cabinets is being able to create them precisely to your preferences!

You can also modify any base cabinet into a specialty unit, such as this pull out garbage can cabinet. It can be made with or without a drawer.

For additional drawer information, visit this post for tips & tricks on installing cabinet drawers.

Plans for Base Cabinets

After answering the questions above, you can begin designing plans for your base cabinets! I will guide you through the process of planning your custom base cabinets so you can get ready to build.

For the main cabinet box, use 3/4″ plywood when building your base cabinets. I suggest using 1/4″ plywood for the back and toe kick cover to lower the cost and reduce the weight of the box.

To cover the exposed plywood edges at the front, you can use edge banding for a frameless cabinet or add a face frame for a face frame cabinet. Face frames are generally made from 1×2 boards, which are actually 3/4″ thick and 1 1/2″ wide. For a broader, more prominent frame, choose wider boards.

Face Frame Base Cabinet Cutting List

Refer to the chart below to determine the measurements for each component of your face frame base cabinets.

Alternatively, use the cut list calculator provided with the PDF plans.

After determining the dimensions of all your pieces, cut them out. Learn how to cut plywood easily with a circular saw here.

Frameless Base Cabinet Cut List

Refer to the chart below to determine the dimensions of each piece for your frameless base cabinets.

How to Build a Base Cabinet Box

Tools & Materials

STEP 1- Cut out the pieces

Cut each piece based on the cut list you created above. You can also use the cut list calculator included with the PDF build plans.

When constructing base cabinets with a toe kick, use a circular saw, jig saw, or band saw to remove it from the front of both side boards.

For cabinets placed on a 2×4 base, there is no need to notch the sides; simply cut them 3 1/2″ shorter so the cabinet can rest on top. Rather than building several small 2×4 bases, I prefer constructing one large base for all cabinets positioned side by side.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material into the sides of the bottom piece. For sturdy cabinet boxes, space the pocket holes every 4-5 inches.

For face frame cabinets: drill pocket holes in the front of the bottom piece and in both side pieces as well.

For frameless cabinets: apply edge banding to all front edges before putting the cabinet together.

STEP 2- Assemble the Cabinet Box

For useful advice, be sure to read the Tips for a Perfect Cabinet Box section in this post.

Position the bottom piece so it aligns with the top of the toe kick (or with the bottom of the side board when using a 2×4 toe-kick base).

Fasten it with wood glue and pocket hole screws. Use corner clamps to ensure the piece is connected at a 90 degree angle.

Do the same on the opposite side.

Install 2 support pieces. They will keep the box square and provide additional stability. Cut them from plywood scraps. Each piece can be 3-4 inches wide.

Place one across the top of the box and the other along the back. Secure them with pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

When making a frameless cabinet with drawers, install a third support board to divide the drawer box from the cabinet space.

The drawer can be as deep or shallow as you prefer, but the drawer area must be at least 1/2″ taller than the drawer box.

For example, if you want a 4 1/2″ deep drawer (approximately 4″ of usable space after adding the drawer base), position the drawer support piece 5″ beneath the top support.

Use wood glue and finishing nails to attach the back.

If the cabinet sides will be visible, consider routing a groove in the back so the panel can sit inside it. Alternatively, make a side panel slightly larger so it covers both the sides and the back panel.

You can also cut and install the toe kick front at this point, or cut one oversized piece to cover a complete bank of cabinets.

Your base cabinet carcass is now complete!

For frameless cabinets, apply edge banding over the front of the plywood.

For face frame cabinets, continue with the following steps.

STEP 3- Assemble the Face Frame

Cut the rails and stiles for the face frame. Drill holes for 3/4″ material in both endsof the rails.

Fasten the rails between the stiles, keeping them even with the top or bottom edges. Apply wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Hold the frame front snug and aligned with a face frame clamp while securing the pieces.

When constructing a face frame base cabinet that includes a drawer, cut a third face frame rail and attach it in the same manner as the upper and lower rails.

The drawer may be made as deep or shallow as you prefer, but the drawer section must be at least 1/2″ taller than the drawer box.

For example, if you want a 4 1/2″ deep drawer, which provides about 4″ of room after the drawer bottom is installed, position the drawer rail piece 5″ beneath the top support.

At this point, the face frame is prepared for attachment to the front of the cabinet box.

Position the face frame so it extends 1/4″ beyond both sides of the cabinet. Ensure the top aligns with the top of the cabinet box, and that the upper edge of the bottom rail lines up with the cabinet bottom.

Spread a small amount of wood glue over the plywood front, then fasten the face frame using the pocket holes previously drilled into the cabinet sides and base.

STEP 4- Add Shelves

You have several options for installing adjustable shelves in your base cabinet. In my experience, the simplest and most affordable method is using shelf pins along with a basic shelf pin jig.

To make the shelf pin holes, I rely on theKreg shelf pin jig. This jig comes with two bit sizes, 5mm and 1/4″, so verify that your shelf pins match the bit you use (or purchase both sizes).

Shelf pins are available in numerous designs, ranging from straight cylinders to L-shaped versions. My preference is theL shaped pins. Because the shelf rests against the cabinet sides, these pins keep my shelves firmly in place.

When making the holes, there is no need to drill into the bottom and top approximately 6″ unless you require an especially short shelf compartment. Instead, place a scrap wood spacer beneath theshelf pin jigso the pin holes remain consistent across all four rows.

STEP 5- Add doors and/or drawers

Doors are essential for completing the cabinet box. They conceal the contents while protecting them from dirt and dust.

You can construct cabinet doors in many different styles. Before choosing a design, however, be sure you understand cabinet door dimensions and hinge requirements.

After calculating the door dimensions, you can make your own DIY shaker cabinet doors or simple slab doors using plywood. For a more decorative look, you could also create glass-panel cabinet doors.

After building the doors, use this tutorial to mount them with concealed hinges.

If you want to include drawers in your base cabinet, discover three simple DIY drawer-building methods here. Then find out how to install cabinet doors here.

Your cabinet is complete and prepared for installation.

Tips for a Professional Cabinet that are Easy to Install

1- Use a router to create small chamfers along the side edges of the face frames. If the cabinets are not perfectly aligned during installation, the unevenness will be less noticeable.

2- On any visible cabinet sides, cut 1/4″ panels and attach them as covers. These panels conceal the pocket holes and bring the face frame side flush with the cabinet.

3- Make the toe kick panel wide enough to span a full cabinet section rather than cutting one for each cabinet. This removes an additional edge that must be aligned precisely.

4- Construct the cabinet box from pre-finished plywood so that only the face frames need to be painted or finished before installation. Learn how to achieve a smooth, professional paint finish on your cabinets.

5- Install a center stile on larger base cabinets to strengthen the middle and simplify door installation, since the center reveal does not need to be as exact.

If you have questions or notice something I missed, leave a comment and I will try my best to help. I hope this gives you the confidence to build your own cabinets as well!