Classic 4 Drawer Dresser Build Plans

 

If you require plenty of clothing storage but lack room for a broad dresser, this timeless four-drawer design is an excellent choice.

Featuring two compact drawers above and two oversized drawers underneath, it offers an impressive amount of storage! At just 42″ wide, it can comfortably fit into most rooms.

This four-drawer dresser belongs to a coordinated bedroom collection. Take a look at the complementary plans for the 6-drawer dresser, tall 7-drawer dresser, and 1-drawer nightstand. A 3-drawer nightstand will be available soon to complete the collection.

Pottery Barn Farmhouse Dresser Lookalike

If you admire Pottery Barn’s farmhouse collection, you’ll appreciate this dresser! I created the coordinating pieces to reproduce the style and lines of that series,

Still, building it yourself will show you just how much money you can keep in your pocket. I purchased all the lumber for the four items for less than the cost of a single nightstand.

This attractive four-drawer dresser is ideal for a compact bedroom where a large 6-drawer dresser will not fit. Build both pieces if you want an abundance of storage!

I constructed my DIY dresser using knotty alder. Alder plywood forms the top, drawer faces, and side panels, while straightforward 1×2 and 2×2 boards make up the frame.

I absolutely love the rich, cozy shades of alder. It is also a pleasure to work with, being simple to handle and more affordable than many other hardwood varieties.

Of course, you can choose any type of wood that suits your personal style.

Coordinating Dresser Collection

Enjoy this dresser? A full bedroom set is available, including a wide 6-drawer dresser, tall dresser, and matching nightstands.

Building a 4-Drawer Dresser

Required Tools & Supplies

Overall Measurements

Once completed, the dresser measures 42″ wide, 20″ deep, and 35 3/4″ high.

The upper section includes 2 smaller drawers (16″ x 17 1/8″ x 6 1/2″ deep), while the lower section has 2 spacious drawers (16″ x 36″ x 8 1/2″ deep).

Cutting List

Prepare the components using the clear table and illustrations provided in the PDF plans.

Use a RipCut guide to rip the plywood into strips, then crosscut each piece to its required final measurement.

Discover all of my advice for breaking down plywood sheets with a circular saw more easily here.

Apply iron-on edge banding around the drawer front pieces and tabletop edges to conceal the exposed plywood sides.

As another option, make the drawer fronts from 1×8 boards (which are actually 7 1/4” wide) and 1×10 boards (which are actually 9 1/4” wide) if you would rather use solid lumber.

STEP 1- Assemble the sides

Make one pocket hole, adjusted for 1 1/2” thick stock, at each end of the 3/4” wide edge on both side-trim pieces.

Add pocket holes, configured for 3/4” plywood, around the outer edges of the side-panel pieces.

At the top and bottom of each side panel, position the pocket holes far enough from the edge so they do not interfere with the holes in the side-trim pieces.

Fasten the side trim along the panel’s top and bottom, keeping the panel even with the rear edge of the trim board.

Use 1 1/4” pocket-hole screws along with wood glue for a sturdy connection.

Join the side panel to one leg piece using glue and screws, aligning it with the top and keeping the panel even with the back of the leg.

• Fasten the trim pieces to the leg with 2 1/2” long pocket-hole screws.
• Connect the panel to the leg using 1 1/4” pocket-hole screws.

Fasten the third side-trim piece to the bottom of the leg so it is1 1/2” above the bottom of the leg, positioned at the leg’s center (3/8” from both the front and back).

Position the pocket hole underneath so it remains concealed. Apply glue, then fasten with 2 1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the second leg to the opposite side using the same process.

STEP 2- Build the front frame

At each end of the front and back trim, dividers, and center pieces, bore two pocket holes designed for 3/4” thick material.

Center the divider between the two trim pieces, then join the boards with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

EXPERT TIP:
For concealed pocket holes, point the holes in the top trim upward so the top covers them, and direct the holes in the bottom trim downward toward the floor.

STEP 3- Assemble the dresser frame

Use the pocket holes previously drilled into the ends of the front trim pieces to secure the frame between the sides.

Position the front frame 1/4” behind the front edge of the sides and align it flush with the top.

Following the spacing shown in the plans’ diagram, install the remaining two trim pieces. As before, position them 1/4” behind the front of the legs.

EXPERT TIP:
Place several 1/4″ plywood scraps beneath the front frame to achieve the required 1/4″ setback.

Fasten everything with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Create pocket holes for 1 1/2” thick material at both ends of the back pieces and along the 3/4” wide edge of the back trim piece.

Following the 3D illustration in the PDF plans, attach the back pieces to the sides with 2 1/2” pocket hole screws.

Install the back trim between the sides, 1 1/2” above the bottom and centered over the legs (3/8” from each edge), keeping the pocket hole underneath for concealment.

Use wood glue and 2 1/2” pocket hole screws to secure it.

NOTE: The dresser’s back is now finished. To cover the opening, you may cut a piece of 1/4” plywood to fit, although it is not needed for structural support. I also prefer leaving the back open so items cannot become trapped behind the drawers.

On the front and back of the center support, drill pocket holes intended for 3/4” thick plywood. On the back, make holes only where the plywood meets the back pieces.

Position the plywood panel in the dresser’s center, then fasten it with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

STEP 4- Build drawer boxes

On the inside of each drawer box piece, cut a groove 1/4″ wide and 1/4″ deep, positioned 1/4″ above the bottom.

I made these cuts with several passes over my table saw. A circular saw or router can also be used to create the groove.

The drawers may be assembled with pocket holes or pneumatic staples. When using pocket holes, drill holes for 1/2″ material on the outside faces of the drawer box front and back pieces, opposite the grooved side.

To assemble each drawer box, attach the side pieces to the front using wood glue and 1″ staples or pocket hole screws.

Keep the upper edges of every drawer box piece level with one another.

Fit the drawer box bottom into the grooves in the sides and front. Next, secure the back piece in the same manner as the front to close the box.

Repeat these steps for all (4) drawer boxes.

Find additional drawer box-building methods and helpful tips here.

I prefer rounding the inside edge of the drawer box to eliminate the plywood’s sharp edge. Although optional, this is simple to accomplish with a basic trim router and round-over bit.

As an alternative, smooth the inner edge using a sander.

STEP 5- Install drawers boxes and fronts

Mount the drawer boxes with the side slides, positioning them 3/4” behind the front edge of the front frame (1” behind the front of the legs).

Set the drawer boxes 1/4” above the bottom of each opening, which leaves 3/4” of space at the top.

Learn how to fit drawers with ball bearing slides here.

EXPERT TIP:
Secure a piece of 3/4″ plywood across the top of the front frame with clamps. Confirm that it is level, then clamp it at the rear of the dresser. Rest your drawer slides on the plywood as you fasten them in place. This helps ensure the slides remain level inside the dresser.

Fasten the shorter section of each drawer slide to the drawer box side.

I positioned them 7/8″ above the bottom of the box to achieve the proper clearance after installation. Be sure to measure your own slides and make any necessary adjustments.

Install the drawer fronts so they rest within the frame and align evenly with the front. Leave a 1/8” space around the entire perimeter of each drawer front.

After positioning the drawer front (use 1/8” spacers or playing cards to create an even reveal), I used a brad nailer and 1” nails to hold the front temporarily from inside the drawer.

Alternatively, try my method for mounting drawer fronts with the drawer pulls.

Next, secure the drawers permanently with 1” wood screws driven from the inside. Use (4) screws on each drawer, placing one at every corner of the drawer box front.

Install the drawer pulls you prefer. I chose a small 1” black pull for the upper drawers and a large 5″ drawer pull for the lower drawer fronts.

STEP 6- Install the top and finish

I like installing the top at the end because it keeps the drawer interiors easy to reach during installation. Begin by taking out all the drawers and labeling each one. I noted its position on the back of the drawer box.

Set the top on your workbench, then turn the dresser frame upside down and position it over the top. The top should align flush with the back of the dresser frame while extending 1” past the sides and front.

Create 1/4” deep countersunk holes through the top of the frame. Drill 3 holes along the front and another 3 along the back.

Fasten the top using 1” screws in the front holes and 2” long wood screws through the back.

Slide the drawers back into place, and you’re finished!

Stain, seal, or paint your new 4 drawer dresser. I applied a matte finish to protect the alder wood without changing its color. It simply deepens the tone of the natural wood.

You’ve finished it!

Your spacious dresser drawers are ready to fill, so enjoy the extra storage!

Enjoy building!