How to Build Wall Cabinets

 

In this article, we will examine the specific measurements and construction process involved in making wall cabinets.

Be sure to read the general post about building cabinets here to learn about the various cabinet styles, the advantages and disadvantages of each, an overall look at cabinet components, and basic assembly methods.

Wall cabinets are used for upper kitchen cabinetry, laundry room storage, and built-in bookcases. They can also provide additional overhead storage in bathrooms or closets.

Important Factors When Constructing Wall Cabinets

Before building your own wall cabinets, you will need to determine a few details before drawing up your plans. Let’s review the choices available so you can decide how you want your wall cabinets to be designed.

Which cabinet style would you prefer?

Wall cabinets can be built as face frame cabinets or frameless, also known as European-style, cabinets. Read more about the various cabinet types, including photos, here to decide which option suits your project.

What Height Should Wall Cabinets Have?

The height of your wall cabinets will be determined by the ceiling height in the installation area and the amount of room required beneath the cabinets. However, because this is a DIY project, you can build them at any height you choose! The following standard measurements can help you begin planning your kitchen layout.

In a laundry room, a top-loading washing machine requires enough open space beneath the cabinet for the lid to open completely.

For built-in units, there is generally no required gap above the lower base cabinets, if you are using them. You may also extend the cabinets up to the ceiling or leave space above for decorative items.

If you intend to install crown molding along the cabinet tops, leave a narrow space rather than taking the cabinets all the way to the ceiling. The molding will conceal this gap.

What Depth Should Wall Cabinets Have?

The depth of wall cabinets, like their height, varies according to the type of cabinet you are making. Since you are creating a custom design, you can select the depth that best fits your needs!

Plans for Wall Cabinets

After answering the questions above, you can begin developing plans for your own wall cabinets! I will guide you through the process of planning custom wall cabinets so you can confidently begin construction.

When constructing your wall cabinets, use 3/4″ plywood for the cabinet box exterior and 1/4″ plywood for the back panel.

To complete the exposed plywood edges on the front, you can apply edge banding for a frameless cabinet or install a face frame for a face frame cabinet.

Face frames are generally made from 1×2 boards, which measure 3/4″ thick and 1 1/2″ wide in reality. For a broader, more prominent frame, choose wider boards.

Face Frame Wall Cabinet Cut List

Refer to the chart below to determine the measurements for each component of your face frame wall cabinets.

Alternatively, use the cut list calculator provided with the PDF plans.

Frameless Wall Cabinet Cut List

Use the chart below to calculate the dimensions of all the parts for your frameless wall cabinets.

How to Construct a Wall Cabinet Box

Tools & Materials

STEP 1- Cut the pieces

Cut each component based on the cut list you created above. You can also use the cut list calculator included in the PDF construction plans.

Learn how to cut plywood easily with a circular saw here.

Use a 3/4″ material setting to drill pocket holes into the sides of the top and bottom pieces.

For sturdy cabinet boxes, place pocket holes every 4-5 inches.For my 12″ wall cabinets I use 4 pocket holes on each side for extra strength.

For face frame cabinets: drill pocket holes along the front of the top, bottom, and both side pieces as well.

For frameless cabinets: apply iron-on edge banding to the front of every piece before assembling.

STEP 2- Put Together the Cabinet Box

For useful advice, be sure to review the Tips for a Perfect Cabinet Box section in this post.

With face frame wall cabinets, position the bottom piece above the bottom edges of the sides so the shelf top aligns flush with the top of the face frame.

For example, with a 1 1/2″ wide face frame, fasten the bottom so its upper edge sits 1 1/2″ above the bottom of the side pieces.

Apply wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to fasten the bottom to the side pieces. Use corner clamps to ensure the joint forms a 90 degree angle.

Next, install the top flush with the upper edges of the sides. Position it with the pocket holes facing the top of the cabinet rather than the inside.

Install 2 support pieces. These will provide the attachment points for securing the cabinet to the wall. Cut them from plywood scraps. They may be 3-4″ thick.

Install the supports at the rear of the box. Position one across the top, directly beneath the top piece, and theanother one will be positioned just above the bottom piece. Secure them with pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

I also prefer fastening them to the top and bottom pieces with a few pocket holes along the edge.

Secure the back using wood glue and finishing nails.

If the sides of your cabinet will be exposed, consider routing a groove into the back so the panel can sit inside it. You will also need to position your support pieces 1/4″ in from the back edges of the sides.

Another option is to make a side panel slightly larger so it covers both the sides and back panel, or add a piece of trim to conceal the back panel.

If you prefer not to have the support pieces visible inside the cabinet, install the back panel in front of them. However, I think the supports blend well with the cabinet back. They are only visible when the doors are open.

Your wall cabinet carcass is now complete!

If you are building frameless cabinets, move on to Step 4.

For face frame cabinets, continue with the following step.

STEP 3- Assemble the Face Frame

Prepare the rails and stiles for the face frame. Drill pocket holes designed for 3/4″ material into both ends of the rails.

Position the rails between the stiles so they are aligned flush with the top or bottom. Apply wood glue and fasten them with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Hold the frame front flush and firmly in place with a face frame clamp while securing it.

The face frame is now ready to be fastened to the front of the cabinet box.

Allow the face frame to overlap each side of the cabinet by 1/4″. Its top should align flush with the top of the cabinet box, while its bottom should be flush with the bottoms of the side pieces.

The upper edge of the bottom rail should also align flush with the top of the bottom shelf.

Apply a small amount of wood glue to the plywood front, then use the pocket holes previously drilled in the cabinet sides, top, and bottom to attach the face frame.

STEP 4- Add Shelves

You can add adjustable shelves to your DIY cabinets in several ways. In my experience, though, the simplest and most affordable method is using shelf pins with a basic shelf pin jig.

I use the Kreg shelf pin jig to rapidly drill the holes for shelf pins. The jig includes two different bits, 5mm and 1/4″, so verify that your pins match the bit size you have, or purchase both sizes.

Shelf pins come in numerous styles, ranging from a straight cylinder to an L shape. I prefer the L shaped pins. They are supported by the shelf against the cabinet sides, which keeps my shelves very stable.

When making the holes, there is no need to drill approximately 6″ into the bottom and top unless you specifically need an unusually short shelf section. Instead, place a scrap wood spacer beneath the shelf pin jig to keep the pin holes evenly positioned across all 4 rows.

STEP 5- Add doors

Doors are essential for completing the cabinet box. They conceal the contents while helping keep everything clean and free of dust.

You can make many styles of doors for your cabinets. Before choosing a design, however, be sure you understand cabinet door dimensions and hinges.

After establishing the door dimensions, you can create your own DIY shaker-style cabinet doors or simple slab doors from plywood. You could also construct glass-panel cabinet doors for a more decorative look.

After building the doors, use this tutorial to install them with concealed hinges.

Your cabinet is now prepared for installation.

Tips for a Professional Cabinet that are Easy to Install

1- Use a router to create small chamfers along the side edges of the face frames. This makes any slight unevenness during installation less noticeable.

2- For cabinet sides that will be exposed, cut 1/4″ panels to cover them. These panels conceal the pocket holes and bring the face frame side flush with the cabinet.

3- Construct the cabinet box from pre-finished plywood, then you only need to paint or finish the face frames before installation. See how we painted our unfinished cabinets here.

4- Install a center stile on large wall cabinets to provide additional middle support and simplify door installation, since the center reveal does not need to be perfectly precise.

5- If a face frame wall cabinet is deeper than the cabinet beside it, install the 1/4″ plywood side panel from the cabinet front to 1-2″ beyond the point where the neighboring cabinet will sit. Do this before installation so you do not add unnecessary plywood that will be concealed. This also ensures the finished cabinets are not 1/4″ shorter than intended, because the shallower cabinet will not provide a face frame for it to rest against.

If you have questions or notice anything I missed, leave a comment and I will do my best to help. I want you to feel confident building your own cabinets as well!